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Creamy Caramel Sauce
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Caramel sauce is perhaps the most versatile incarnation of caramel.
Besides being both a hot and cold sauce, it makes a great filling for
tarts and other pastries. It is also a major ingredient in some of my
other recipes, such as truffles that I make with Caramel Ganache and
Caramel Souffle. I always keep a variety of caramel blends refrigerated
in my bakeshop. They last for weeks and are ready at a moment's notice
to fulfill the inevitable special request. When I make creamy and clear
caramels that have liquid added to them, I take the caramel to a high
temperature, because I want a more, intense flavor that won't be
diluted when the caramel is stretched. For example, you'll be heating
the sugar to 375 degrees F in this recipe and you'll want to watch it
carefully so it doesn't burn. Adding any liquid to hot caramel will
cause it to bubble up like an eruption of molten lava. Using a pot that
is at least twice the volume of the ingredients will prevent boil-over.
Heating the liquid first reduces the volatility of this reaction but
does not eliminate it, so be prepared. Oven mitts and a long-handled
whisk are helpful, and don't stick your head or arms directly over the
pot. It is important to remember that the steam rising out of a pot of
hot caramel is as hot as the caramel inside, and nothing is as painful
as a steam burn. Creme fraiche adds the perfect balance to this sauce,
taming the sweetness with a touch of acidity. If you can't find it, and
don't have time to make it, sour cream is a good substitute. I also
balance the flavor of this sauce with a second addition of sugar and a
little lemon juice at the very end. This adds another subtle dimension
of flavor.
1/4 cup water
1 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar
2 tablespoons light corn syrup
1/2 cup heavy cream, warmed to 100 degrees F
1/4 cup creme fraiche
1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Pinch salt (less than 1/8 teaspoon)
Heat a saucepan of water and place a whisk in it.
Wash and dry your hands thoroughly. Combine the water, 1 cup of sugar,
and the corn syrup in a medium saucepan. Stir them together with very
clean fingers, making sure no lumps of dry sugar remain. Brush down the
insides of the pan with a little water, using your hand to feel for any
stray granules of sugar.
Cover the saucepan and place it over medium heat for 4 minutes. After 4
minutes, remove the lid, increase the heat to high, and bring to a
boil. Do not stir from this point on. Keep an eye on the pan. It will
be very bubbly. When stray sugar crystals appear on the side of the
pan, brush them down with a wet pastry brush.
As the sugar cooks, the bubbles will get larger. Insert a candy
thermometer, and when the temperature reaches 300 degrees F, lower the
heat to medium, which will slow the cooking. Continue to cook the sugar
until it reaches 350 degrees F. It will be dark brown. Remove the pot
from the heat and let it sit for 1 minute, or until the bubbles subside.
Add the cream to the caramel. It will bubble up vigorously, so be careful.
Vigorously whisk in the remaining 1 tablespoon sugar, creme fraiche,
lemon juice, and salt. This sauce is now ready to be served warm or
cooled to room temperature. It will keep stored airtight in the
refrigerator for up to 1 month. When cold, it has the consistency of
peanut butter.
Recipe courtesy Sherry Yard, The Secrets of Baking, Houghton Mifflin, 2003
Show: Sara's Secrets
Episode: Tricks of the Trade
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